Style guide
The Tie Guide
Accessories possess a unique ability: they can either enhance or detract from an outfit. It is the finer details that complete a look. Without a well-chosen tie, your shirts may fall short of their potential. So, what should you consider before buying your next one?
Many gentlemen approach us at John Henric with queries about ties. They wish to know which type of tie suits a particular occasion. The truth is, the options are limitless. The choice of tie depends on the situation you are dressing for. Mastering the art of accessorising is a skill. We are here to assist you with this. So, without further ado, let's explore when and with what you can wear dotted, plain, striped, and patterned ties. This is your essential guide to getting the details just right.
Dotted ties
The dotted tie is one of the most versatile ties a man can own, thanks to its simplicity. It can be worn to both work and celebratory events, depending on the size of the dots. Smaller dots are generally seen as more formal than larger ones. We are strong proponents of pairing dotted ties with nearly any item, regardless of shirt or suit fabric. However, we do advise against wearing a dotted tie with another item that also features dots, as it can appear cluttered.
A dotted tie pairs best with either striped patterns or no patterns at all, as illustrated in the image below. Depending on the tie’s base colour or the colour of the dots, you can mix and match with various blazers. Dotted ties should have a permanent place in every man’s wardrobe. They are not ostentatious; rather, they are understated, refined, and elegant.
Solid-coloured ties
Typically, the first tie a man purchases is a plain one, as he aims to wear it to as many occasions as possible. And rightly so. Solid-coloured ties are versatile and complement everything. While they are not the only option when buying a new tie, they are always a wise choice.
If you choose to buy a plain tie, you have two options. You can either select a tie in the same colour as your blazer, but perhaps in a different shade, creating a tone-on-tone combination, which is very tidy. Alternatively, you could opt for a tie in a contrasting, yet soft, colour that complements your suit. For example, a plain green tie with a blue jacket. Remember, solid-coloured garments are perceived as more formal than multi-coloured ones. Therefore, it may be prudent to bear this in mind when selecting a tie for the evening. A solid-coloured tie in a darker shade, such as navy, is traditionally viewed as very formal. A darker tie will appear more substantial than, say, a paisley tie. Consequently, plain ties are excellent for weddings and formal gatherings. A solid-coloured tie is always a suitable choice for white or light blue business shirts.
Striped ties
The first ties to be mass-produced were striped ties, originating from Oxford University's collegiate tradition. Since then, striped ties have been associated with men’s clubs, such as gentlemen’s clubs, rowing clubs, and military divisions. Historically, wearing a striped tie was reserved for those with an affiliation.
Nowadays, that notion is somewhat outdated, and striped ties are a staple in our daily wardrobe. Striped ties come in numerous varieties, but we prefer to wear ours with either a striped or plain shirt. They can also be paired with checks, but personally, we favour block stripes with something more subtle. It is important to note that a striped tie works well with one other striped item, such as a striped shirt or a pinstripe suit, but not both. That would be excessive. A smart, elegant outfit might consist of a plain white Oxford shirt, a V-neck jumper, a pair of flannel trousers, and a striped tie. It is elegant, intriguing, and sophisticated.
Patterned ties
At John Henric, we adhere to one primary rule: every outfit should feature at least one plain item and one patterned one. It is a simple guideline, yet it significantly enhances visual appeal. We also advise against using the exact same pattern for more than one item in an outfit, such as the tie and pocket square. Wearing the same pattern on both is considered very formal and is appropriate for weddings, but for everyday wear, we recommend something more creative.
This does not mean that colours and details in the tie should not be reflected in pocket squares or shirts, which is an entirely different matter and a clever way of coordinating colours and patterns. When choosing a patterned tie, you have the opportunity for personal expression. Our best advice is to select patterns you like, provided the colours harmonise with both your shirt and blazer. We have a fondness for paisley ties due to their elegant connotations. Below is an example of how to apply this rule flawlessly.
