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Style guide
The Tie Guide
A tie has long stood as a symbol of refinement. It speaks before you do — expressing confidence, precision, and personality all at once. In a world where dressing well has become an act of intent, understanding the tie is fundamental. It’s more than an accessory; it’s the detail that defines a gentleman. Whether you’re attending a business meeting, a wedding, or a relaxed gathering, the right tie subtly transforms your entire presence. At John Henric, where craftsmanship and modern tailoring meet, we believe every man should understand the art behind choosing and wearing a tie.
The tie’s origins stretch back centuries, evolving from a functional garment worn by soldiers to the ultimate mark of sophistication. Yet, while its role has changed, its impact remains constant. Today, a tie tells a story of taste, awareness, and individuality. It shows that you’ve considered every element of your look — from texture to tone, from knot to collar shape. This guide will help you navigate that story, explaining the nuances between dotted, solid, striped, and patterned ties, so that you can express your style with quiet confidence.
Dotted ties
There’s something inherently charming about the dotted tie. Playful yet polished, it strikes a balance few other designs can achieve. A dotted tie adds subtle dimension to an outfit without demanding attention — a nod to personality beneath composure. For men who want to introduce pattern without overpowering their ensemble, dots are the perfect entry point.
The secret to mastering dotted ties lies in proportion. Smaller dots exude understated elegance, making them ideal for boardroom attire or formal events. Larger dots, on the other hand, feel more expressive, working beautifully for social gatherings, summer weddings, or evenings out. A navy silk tie with fine white pin dots complements a charcoal suit impeccably, offering just enough detail to distinguish the wearer without a word. For more casual outfits, such as a beige linen blazer and light blue shirt, a dotted tie in earthy tones brings warmth and sophistication.
Texture also matters. A dotted silk tie catches the light and brings a refined lustre to darker suits, while a wool or knitted version softens the formality for autumn or winter styling. Always consider contrast: if your shirt features a small pattern, choose a dotted tie with larger spacing to balance the visual rhythm. The dotted tie’s strength lies in versatility — formal or casual, summer or winter, it adapts effortlessly while maintaining character.
Solid-coloured ties
If there’s one tie every man should own, it’s a solid-coloured tie. Clean, simple, and endlessly sophisticated, it’s the foundation of classic menswear. A solid tie communicates certainty and restraint — a quiet statement that relies on texture and tone rather than pattern. In a world that often celebrates excess, this form of elegance feels refreshingly modern.
The beauty of a solid tie lies in its adaptability. A deep navy silk tie complements almost any suit and shirt combination, while a burgundy or forest green tie introduces subtle colour for autumn and winter. During warmer months, lighter hues such as sand, pale blue, or sage green can refresh a linen or cotton suit with effortless style. When choosing a solid tie, focus on texture. Smooth silk conveys sharp formality, while matte grenadine weaves, knitted silks, or lightweight linen ties soften the impression and bring tactile depth.
Pairing solid ties with patterned shirts or suits offers balance and clarity. A striped shirt with a plain tie is timeless; a checked blazer paired with a solid tie feels deliberate and sophisticated. To avoid monotony, vary finishes: if your suit is matte, a silk tie adds light; if your outfit already shines, a woven or textured tie anchors it. Solid ties also provide the perfect canvas for more creative knots, whether a classic Windsor for structure or a simple four-in-hand for relaxed refinement. Every man needs several solid ties in his wardrobe — they are the backbone of versatility and taste.
Striped ties
The striped tie is a study in heritage and modernity. Its roots trace back to regimental and club traditions, where patterns once represented allegiance and honour. Today, those stripes symbolise distinction, discipline, and dynamic style. A striped tie adds energy to an outfit — a sense of direction that naturally draws the eye.
Stripes can completely change the tone of an ensemble. Narrow, evenly spaced lines create a sharp, professional appearance perfect for business attire. Broader, bolder stripes in contrasting colours carry more flair and confidence, ideal for occasions where personality takes precedence. For a timeless British look, think navy repp silk with alternating stripes of burgundy and gold, paired with a crisp white shirt and charcoal suit. The harmony of heritage colours never fails.
Balancing patterns is key. When wearing a striped tie, ensure your shirt pattern differs in scale. A fine-striped or micro-checked shirt complements a tie with broader lines, while a plain shirt provides the perfect canvas for any stripe width. Fabric choice also influences perception: silk offers a polished, classic aesthetic, while wool or cotton stripes can tone down formality for smart-casual settings. Striped ties are particularly striking with double-breasted blazers or navy linen jackets, embodying the British blend of authority and charm.
Patterned ties
A patterned tie is where individuality takes centre stage. It’s the finishing touch that defines your personality within the boundaries of classic tailoring. From paisley to geometric prints, floral motifs to abstract designs, patterns allow creative expression without compromising sophistication.
The key to wearing patterned ties successfully is balance. If the tie is bold, let it be the focal point — keep your shirt and suit subtle. A navy wool suit with a burgundy paisley silk tie achieves timeless elegance, while a beige linen blazer with a floral tie evokes effortless summer charm. For men comfortable with bolder choices, geometric or medallion patterns add a touch of the contemporary.
Consider the occasion. For formal events, smaller, more intricate patterns project refinement. For casual gatherings, larger motifs and playful colours can convey relaxed confidence. The season also influences your decision: deeper tones in autumn and winter, lighter prints in spring and summer. Always ensure the pattern’s colours echo something within your outfit — a pocket square, shirt hue, or blazer tone — to create harmony.
Patterned ties also allow you to experiment with texture. A silk tie with a printed motif feels elegant and fluid, while a woven jacquard adds structure and depth. The modern gentleman understands that the tie isn’t about extravagance — it’s about balance, confidence, and the subtle message of control within expression.
The true art of wearing a tie lies not in following rigid rules but in understanding harmony. Each tie — dotted, solid, striped, or patterned — tells a different story, but all share the same purpose: to elevate your appearance through attention to detail. Mastering this small element of dress allows you to navigate every occasion with ease, confidence, and authenticity.
A tie frames your face, anchors your shirt, and adds dimension to your outfit. It shows you care — not in a loud way, but with quiet assurance. The man who understands his ties commands respect effortlessly. He knows when to reach for silk, when to choose texture, and how colour can shift an entire impression.
At John Henric, we design our ties in Italy, where generations of craftsmanship meet contemporary design. Each piece is a result of thoughtful selection — of fabrics, colours, and finishes that reflect the modern man’s lifestyle. Whether you’re dressing for business, ceremony, or casual refinement, your tie should represent both confidence and comfort.
The modern gentleman no longer wears a tie because he must; he wears it because he chooses to. It is his signature — a quiet declaration of taste in a world that often overlooks the power of subtlety. Understanding how to wear and choose a tie is not about adhering to rules but about celebrating the art of detail. And in that art, a man’s individuality finds its most elegant form.
How wide should a man’s tie be?
A classic tie width is around 7–8 cm, which suits most body shapes and lapel styles. Slimmer ties, around 6 cm, pair well with modern narrow-lapel suits, while wider ties convey a more traditional look. The key is balance — the width of your tie should roughly match the width of your suit lapel.
What tie colour goes best with a navy suit?
Navy suits are incredibly versatile. Burgundy, silver, green, and patterned blue ties all complement navy beautifully. For a formal event, choose deep tones in silk; for daytime or summer, lighter shades in linen or cotton add a relaxed touch.
Can I wear a patterned tie with a patterned shirt?
Yes — but the trick is to vary the pattern scale. If your shirt has small checks or fine stripes, opt for a tie with larger or more widely spaced motifs. Keeping at least one solid colour between patterns (for instance, a solid blazer) ensures the look stays refined.
What is the best fabric for ties?
Silk is the timeless choice for elegance and sheen, while wool and cashmere add texture in colder months. Linen and cotton ties work beautifully for summer or smart-casual outfits. The fabric should suit both the season and the tone of your attire.
When should I wear a knitted tie?
Knitted ties are perfect for occasions that call for smart-casual sophistication. Their textured weave softens formality, pairing well with blazers, linen suits, and even denim shirts. They’re ideal for adding interest without appearing too strict.
How do I choose the right tie knot?
The knot should complement your collar shape and fabric thickness. A four-in-hand knot suits most occasions and collar types, while a half-Windsor gives more symmetry for spread collars. Thicker fabrics usually need simpler knots to avoid bulk.
